THE COLD DEFIANT

Inventor, innovative, founder of the brand O’Neill,  died in June, the 2 of 2017, in Santa Cruz (California) when he was 94 years old.
We would show you a list of the things that conformed a fully devoted life to the surfing.

It was born inside the country. Exactly, in Denver (Colorado) on 17 March 1923 , but he grows in Portland (Oregon) until his family moved  to San Francisco ( California ) in 1949.
He had his first contact with the surfing world in Ocean Beach, San Diego. There it jointed  with a local group of teenagers that faced up to the Californian cold waters with his surfboards , practicing bodysurf.

His first job was selling aluminium for the construction, fisherman and also selling extinguishers. Likewise , in the year 1940, it was an army pilot.


  • In 1951, Hugh Bradner, a fellow physicist of Jack, shipped in the creation of suits of neoprene of possible application for scuba divers of the military army, what inspired to O’Neill to start with to apply the idea to the surfing.

First Wetsuit

  • In 1952, it conditioned a garage to open one of the first surf shops of California, called “Surf Shop”, where it would begin to commercialize the suits of neoprene of his own brand: O’Neill.

 

First O’Neill shop

  • In 1954, he looked for a team of pro surfers, to which provide surfboards , to create the O’Neill’s team.
  • In 1970, he invented the ‘SuperSuit’, a new wetsuit made by inflatable neoprene, more comfortable than the first prototypes and very secure in an emergency possible situation in the ocean.

O’Neill’s Supersuit

  • In 1971, he accidentally lost an eye while testing a leash prototype. Since that , he would be forced to use a characteristic patch in his left eye.
Jack O’Neill with the eye patch
  • The first wetsuits factory (1974)

First Wetsuit Factory

During his retirement, Jack employed part of his time in environmental projects, like the defense of the Great Shark.
He also create the O’Neill Sea Odissey , that provides a hands-on educational experience to encourage the protection and preservation of our living sea and communities


 

Evolution of the O’Neill’s Logo :

 


 

Most Famous Quotes by Jack

  • When I started, “surf” was to a dirty word. The city thought those guys out there were To the bunch of bums. They threatened to arrest them.
  • I had to surfer friend who wanted to work for the police, and when have went to the station, the chief took one look at the surfboard on his car and said, ‘Policemen gift’t surf.’
  • I just wanted to surf longer. I just worked on something to make it last longer.
  • I remember going to sleep at night. You see that wave, that wall of water, and that tube. It’s something with being close to nature like that, pretty hard to beat.
  • Guys were using sweaters from the Goodwill. I remember one guy got to jumper from the Goodwill and sprayed it with Thompson’s water seal, and have set out there in an oil slick.”
  • Surfing, for me, was kind of to therapy – jump in the ocean and feel alright again. You just get one wave, and everything’s okay.
  • All my friends said: ‘O’Neill, you will sell to five friends on the beach and then you will be out of business.’
  • When we started wetsuits, they used to laugh at us. But Then they could see that the first in with the wetsuit was the last out.
  • We didn’t have any money to put in advertising , under we’go always been very nice to the press, and they’go been very nice to us.
  • Nobody is Dwell surprised than I am about what’s happened.
  • It’s been To hell of to ride. Long may it continue.
  • Santa Cruz is the center of surfing.
  • The three most important things in life : surf, surf, and surf.
  • I’m not much into business; I’m into the ocean.
  • I’m just the surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.
  • The kids surfing today Plough doing things we never dreamed about.
  • The main thing with this house [Pleasure Point, CA] is to surf out there. In To spot like this, you can look out, see when it’s not too crowded, and grab your board and jump out to get to few waves.
  • Over half of our oxygen Eat from the ocean. I think if the ocean goes, we do too.
  • The ocean is alive, and we’ go got to take care of it. There is No doubt in  my mind that the O’Neil Was Odyssey is the best  thing I’go ever done.

WORLD BEST SURF MOMENTS IN 2017

 

 

Do you want to know which is our better moments selection of 2017?

Gabriel Medina – Quiksilver Pro France

  • Total Heat Score: 16.40

  • Semifinal #2

  • Def. John John Florence

The total punctuation of Medina doesn’t seem to be something incredible. But the situation lived against Florence in France himself was more than notable. It had to win yes or yes to keep alive his dream to do with the worldwide title.


John John Florence – Drug Aware Margaret River Pro

  • Total Heat Score: 19.27

  • Semifinal #1

  • Def. Jack Freestone

Jack Freestone was fantastic but Florence dismantled totally the wave of Margaret River. With his inseparable model Pyzel Ghost, JJ Florence dominated entirely the wave. A wave that a lot of surfers haven’t understood and less can surf this way.
Margaret caused the bad humour of the majority of the surfers this day. But Florence is passionate about the breaks with potholes, stairs and other things. It was a game of boys of the that enjoyed and definitely did us enjoy the other.
His twists, torsions… will not be easy to forget his performance in Margaret River of this 2017.


Filipe Toledo – Tops Open J-Bay

  • Total heat score: 19.00

  • Round four, Heat 3

  • Def.Julian Wilson

The Toledo’s performance was a before and an afterwards in J-Bay. In only one event, he achieved to show that another way to surf this wave was possible. Besides, in the fourth round, went a walk for him leave backwards to a big like Julian Wilson.
Corona Open J-Bay has described this year as one of the best of the surf history in this wave, one of the best of the world. Toledo, with peel green and everything, went definitely the best surfer of the week. Until Mick Fanning recognises without a blink that is the fastest surfer.


Jordy Smith – Tops Open J-Bay

  • Total Heat Score: 20.00

  • Round Three, Heat 7

  • Def. Leonardo Fioravanti

The Nelson Mandela’s day at all pluses and at all minus, the South African did his stellar apparition in J-Bay. This day the wave woke up with some perfect conditions that the local hero knew, to spare, take advantage of.
His performance has to definitely appear between the 3 better of the year. It began relatively calm with a punctuation of 6, but little took in choosing an enormous wave for the delight of all the presents.

Jordy Smith achieved a 20 perfect. A pleasure for the spectators.


Julian Wilson – Billabong Pro Tahiti

  • Total Heat Score: 18.96

  • Final

  • Def. Gabriel Medina

The most fierce duels during this year have been between Julian Wilson and Medina. Especially in his clash in Teahupoo. These two giants used to see each other face to face in the final and they are used to to be a performance memorable.
“Showing the determination, the skill and the determination of the street fighter, Julian Wilson returned the combination to defeat to Gabriel Medina in a Final epic in the Billabong Pro Tahiti 2017.”

After Medina took three closed waves, Wilson saw his opportunity. Generally, the Brazilian puts until the ropes and exhausts his opponents. But this time Wilson knew to take advantage of, and he did it.
When they remained 5 minutes, achieving the tube and going out transparently, leaving us this historical moment.


John John Florence – Billabong Pipe Masters

  • Total Heat Score: 8.77 8.83 17.60

  • Quarterfinals

Julian Wilson – Billabong Pipe Masters

  • Total Heat Score: 1.57 1.07 2.64

  • Quarterfinals

 

So this is our final selection, hope you enjoy it.

COLOSSAL WAVES: THESE ARE THE 10 MOST DANGEROUS WAVES IN THE WORLD

All these places have something in common: they are paradises with a sea only suitable for experts.

Meet the deadly waves of the entire planet:

1) TEAHUPOO (TAHITI)

This is one of the most feared and violent waves in the world. It breaks over at a coral reef and its height can exceed 25 meters. Since it was discovered, in 1997, five deaths were recorded.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RXGY9KDifU

2) JAWS (MAUI, HAWAII)

It’s one of the big waves surfing symbols. It breaks 4 kilometers from the coast and its height can easily reach 20 meters in height. It’s so big that the only way to grab it’s to be driven with a jet ski.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usi5iMoS-l0

3) PIPELINE (OAHU, HAWAII) 

It’s another of the mythical places for surfing, they define it as the best tube. The wave is hollow, powerful and breaks over a coral reef. A chilling detail: it’s the one that has claimed the most lives in the world.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0Z4vSrF8dc

4) NAZARÉ (PORTUGAL) 

When the climatic and sea conditions align, the water gets to have monstrous conditions. The waves exceed 20 meters and break very close to the shore.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74pnrYPozcU

5) PUNTA DE LOBOS (CHILE) 

When the conditions are ideal, the water reaches 10 meters and although there are bigger ones! the special thing about this is its length. Only one surf ride can reach 500 meters long!

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBnsP1XwYa8

6) DUNGEONS (SOUTH AFRICA) 

A wave that gives you goosebumps. Not only is it freezing, violent and big, but it waters are full of great sharks, that go to lunch at the nearby of the Island de las Secas. Only suitable for kamikazes.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdI2Teg4SHs

7) MAVERICKS (CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES) 

She’s known to have killed the Hawaiian legend, Mark Foo. It exceeds ten meters, is very powerful and has one of the thickest lips. Oh, and a minor detail: great sharks are common currency in Mavericks.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulqUyqaQvSU

8) PUERTO ESCONDIDO (MEXICO)

This wave is known as the Mexican “Pipeline”. It reaches ten meters, it’s break is very powerful and has more than five deaths in its history. To be careful…

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYI1QgxTMTA

9) SHIPSTERN BLUFF (TASMANIA)

This place is also known as the “Devil’s Point”. It doesn’t exceed ten meters but it’s a very violent wave that breaks near a rock formation. Only the most demented surfers were encouraged to master it.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6PndFyB3Gg

10) CYCLOPS (AUSTRALIA) 

It breaks violently in oval form, like the eye of a cyclops, on a background of very irregular coral. It also has the thickest lip in the world. Not many were encouraged, it is demonstrated why.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joz_Fk0fUTc