MARTIN DALY’S STORY, THE BEST MENTAWAI DISCOVERER

Martin Daly is a great unknown on this side of the world, but in Indonesia and Australia is one of the surf living legends, and not just for having invented a surfboard model or for having founded a legendary brand of the sector.

Martin Daly must be able to enjoy some of the best waves in the world. More than 30 years ago, he began his adventure to discover the waves that were in the Mentawai. At the beginning of the eighties it was surfing in Bali, G-Land and also in Nías, but in between, there were thousands of kilometers of virgin coast.

The Mentawai Islands

It’s a small archipelago of volcanic islands located in Indonesia about 150 km from the central part of the west coast of the Sumatra island, from which the waters of the Mentawai Strait separate it. It is a clear example of an insular arch.

The main islands are Siberut (the largest of the archipelago, with 4,030 km²), Sipura (845 km²), Pagai del Sur (Pagai Utara) (622 km²) and Pagai del Norte (Pagai Selatan) (900 km²). Its capital is Tua Pejat, locality of the island of Sipura.

Nowadays it’s becoming very popular for surf and bodyboarding lovers, since there are usually good waves for the practice of these sports, whatever the weather conditions.


Life & Surf in the Mentawai

At the Nyang Nyang Island, in front of one of his five waves, you could find Ebay.

Ebay is a small paradisiacal beach, a short 15m of the water, in a typical  Mentawai Indians construction, remodeled and conditioned for the surfers, will be where to live a different trip experience. Every night according to the forecasts and his guides experience where to surf.

Obviously if it works, the wave in front of the surf camp, along left, hollow and with a reef no too dangerous, will be able to do you these tubes that dreamed during two or three sessions to the day without moving you from the place, at the side is Pit Stop wave, a fun right that puts in occasions powerful and fast and walking a while by the jungle in a direction or another will have two easy waves like Nipussi or Beng Beng.

But the Mentawai Islands and the Playground zone have tens of waves, surely in any place of the world will find such concentration, so on a lot of occasions if these go to work better, loads are eaten, water and surfboards in the Sabbit Surfcamp ship and put course to the wave that touch this day.

Usually some member of the Sabbit Mentawai Surfcamp staff devotes  to dive and fish the dinner that all will enjoy in the porch of the camp before reviewing the photos and videos of the day, or share watched and beers with other surfers and some local inhabitants experts in encouraging with his guitars and his harmonious music of islands.

The best is that all this will be able to enjoy it by €59 to the day with accommodation, complete pension and ship each day to surf in all the zone of Play Ground.


How to go

You can take a ferry that takes a whole night, traveling with the majority of the commodities to resupply to the small populations and where will share cellar with tens of people by some €8 or you can take the modern and fast “Mentawai Fast”, that takes some four hours, in which you will travel comfortably and that if you travel with tables will cost you some €35.

“The Mentawai Fast” goes out from Padang the Tuesdays and the Fridays to the 7 a.m and does a stop before arriving at the main population of Siberut.

Mentawai Fast

Take into account that for the turn are these days those that will be able to do it. You don’t take you out a flight for the Saturday in the morning as then you will have to go you already of Tuesday or pay a faster boat only for you that will cost a dineral.

Padang

In any case, once you arrive to Padang a member of the Sabbit Surfcamp Mentawai team will expect you in the airport, will carry you to the accommodation near of the port where remain  the majority of the surfers and will carry you the next day to take the Mentawai fast.

Berut

Once you arrive to Siberut another member of the team will carry you already to the boat of the Surfcamp and will begin your only experience sailing by the inner channels of the mangrove and afterwards by the zone of sea between islands until arriving to the Nyang Nyang Island.

There are a lot of places in the world with good waves, a lot of incredible destinations, but can ensure you that Mentawai, is in the rank of the most beautiful and with greater waves quality. Depending always of the swell, for many of his waves is important to be a surfer  with some experience, however exist waves more affordable for those who have less level or do not want to assume the risk that always comports to surf on the sharpen coral reefs thanks to which form these jewels that anybody dream to surf.


Good waves Season

The waves season is in March to October, however there are waves practically always, so the Surfcamp is opened all the year. In the last years has been usual that went in swell out of season to the equal that can happen that it do not go in in full campaign, in any case although the luck don’t accompany you and bombs fall by all sides, always will be able to surf each day in these waves that work when any another does it.

 


Daly knew that there had to be perfect waves and he sailed along the coast of all of Indonesia, but especially to the Mentawai to surf where nobody had been before.
His boat, the Indies Trader is one of the mythical charters for surfers that sail the waters of the Mentawai.

 


This GoPro video collects some of those moments and his first-person testimony.
The montage is spiced up with spectacular Felicity Palmateer, Mikala Jones, Marlon Gerber, Tatiana Weston-Webb, Anthony Walsh, and Kai Lenny images.

 

FIRST SURF MUSEUM IN SPAIN

The first surf museum in Spain opens in Valdoviño, Galicia

The Galician city of Valdoviño is going to become the first city in Spain having a specific surf museum, and it going to be called ‘Ocean Surf Museum’. This project going to situated at the Cultural House of Valdoviño, a building that received in his best days the National Prize of Architecture, a work of Manuel Gallego Jorreto, the architect.

Cultural House Valdoviño

The “Ocean Surf Museum” will do a review of the history of this sport in Galicia, his precursors, the evolution…
All documented and showed in graphic form. Besides, also it will have contained other related with surf disciplines like; the oceanography, the meteorology or the engineering. As logic, the museum will also have a devoted room to the Classic Pantin, the most important celebrated proof in Spain and one of the most ancient of the world.

You’re going to be able to contemplate the funds in the first flat, that has a glazed gallery with views of the Frouxeira beach, although the museum also will be able to become the exhibitions room of the Cultural House to organise temporary samples, as well as his auditorium could become a cultural centre, receiving cycles of cinema, festivals, congresses…etc.

 

The museum will have “unique pieces, like surfboards or wetsuits”, and in his first activity days, it will exhibit a sample of the surfboards collection of Enrique Artero. The surf history in Galicia is the conductive thread of the Ocean Surf Museum; from where it invites the visitor to make a route in this sport, starting from the beginnings until our days. For this, it will include “texts, planes, illustrations, original pieces, photographies and audiovisual”.

 


 

Likewise, the Classic Pantin will have his own “space stood out” in quality of “an exclusive protagonist in one of the rooms”.


The Pull & Bear Pantín Classic Galicia Pro remains one of the highest level tests in Europe within the WQS qualifying circuit. With 6,000 points in both his male and female, from August 29 to September 3 will bring together some of the most representative names in world surfing in Ferrol. Proof of this is that the last two winners of the competition, Kanoa Igarashi, and Sage Erickson, are among those chosen few, the best surfers on the planet, who fight to be world champions in the WCT.

The location in the calendar within the so-called European tour, with two relatively close WCT events (France and Portugal), and the hearth of an event that has already lasted 30 years have caused a stream of stars to end up being encouraged to dispute the throne of Pantín. The list of illustrious people who have participated is inexhaustible, from the legendary Tom Curren to Mark Occhilupo, Joel Parkinson or the brothers Andy and Bruce Irons.
This year won’t be an exception.

REMEMBER: Access to dunes outside of authorized travel sites is prohibited. It isn’t allowed to uproot plants or disturb wildlife.

A COMMITMENT: Help Pantin Classic be exemplary in the protection of the biodiversity it houses. Respect the signage, and place yourself in the authorized places to observe the test, but NEVER ON THE HIGH OF THE DUNES, NEITHER CROSS THE DUNES.

DO NOT LEAVE ABANDONED GARBAGE.

COLLABORATE with the environmental volunteering of the Pantin Classic and its activities.

 


Localization :

 

BANGLADESHI SURF GIRLS, BATTLE FOR A DREAM.

Since the Women World Conference in Mexico in 1975 (which was a momentous event in the battle for equality) Bangladeshi women suffer that his city has been at the forefront among the least developed countries in addressing gender inequalities.

Bangladesh has the eighth lowest level of gender differences in terms of political empowerment in the world. This is partly due to the fact that a female head of state has had a longer time than any other country in the world. In addition, the proportion of seats held by women in the national parliament doubled from 10 percent in 1990 to 20 percent in 2011. The increasing presence in the political sphere has had important implications in the family structure. Society is moving away from the traditional idea that women are an economic burden and that sons are more desirable than women. Studies show that the growing independence of women is one of the main causes of the decrease in the phenomenon of the “disappearance of women” – infanticide due to gender – in Bangladesh.

Women Rights

In the economic sphere, women have also played a fundamental role, as evidenced by the importance of the garment sector. Although the proportion of men and women employed in manufacturing is more or less the same, the vast majority of workers in the clothing sector are women: between 80 and 85 percent. The economic success of the last two decades of Bangladesh is due in large part to the export of textiles to Europe and North America.

Although women usually do not own land and do not possess the necessary tools for agriculture, their work has been of vital importance in the success of Bangladesh’s agricultural productivity. The country stands out when compared to other countries in Asia in terms of increased agricultural productivity.

In addition, Bangladesh has made significant progress in terms of women’s health over the last three decades. The women expectancy life, for example, increased from 54.3 years in 1980 to 69.3 years in 2010, one of the highest increases in the region.


Bazaar of Cox

In Bangladesh, specifically in a place called Bazaar of Cox, something incredible is occurring: Eight young girls are learning to surf each morning, raining or sunning, these girls go out of his houses, in the traditional villages and do his way to the beach, where work the sale of jewels, fried chips, and eggs until the night.
His families depend on his income to survive.

Mayasha, 12, and Nargis, 13, sell jewels in the beach of Bazaar of Cox, Bangladesh.

For the big majority of Bangladeshi girls, this would be his only activity until they marry, generally before fulfilling the 18 years old and assume being masters of the of the house or the domestic role.
But during the last year and a half, these eight girls have been learning to surf, skate, and make his dream, thanks to the efforts of the surfers and lifeguard Rashed Alam, his wife  Venessa Rude and to Cox’s Bazaar Lifesaving and Surf Club.


Allison Joyce

The photographer Allison Joyce realized on the history of these eight “brave and vivacious” girls, from among 10 and 13 years, during the filming of a work for the Club of Surf of Getty Images in 2013. It returned several times over the next years to document as they continued these youngsters with his activity of surf,  in a Muslim conservative country. “It’s bizarre to see to the girls, of vivacious spirit in Bangladesh”, says Joyce.
“But you already see that when they stand up in the surfboard and when they are skating, his life, the day in day out, breaks with the traditional papers that the women have in Bangladesh.”

Johanara Goes out of the water after finishing his session of surf

Whereas there are other girls working in the Bazaar of Cox beach, these eight girls, had the good fortune to work in the stretch near of the Club of Surf, where Rashed Alam works, the volume under his protection to teach them to surf.
Venessa Rude is his tutor and instructs them on the theory…during six days to the week, Alam teaches them the technics of the surf. Between Rashed and his wife, they prepare the girls so that they can achieve places of lifeguard work when fulfilling the 16 years. They would be the first women lifeguards on the beach.

This project has allowed the girls to dream of a further life of the traditional future that expects of them. Now you ask them and say you what want to be: ‘I Want to be a lifeguard,”,“I want to be a pro surfer or Sumi wants to be medical.”

To make the photographic documentary, Allison Joyce gone with some girls to his homes, in the majority of them didn’t have running water either electricity. The trek that makes the girls from his houses to the beach daily can be treacherous and long. Sanctions by not working are hard and even some girls receive lickings by his own familiar if they do not bring home sufficient money, even when the ways are closed because of strikes.

Sumi, who is the only girl able to go to a formal school, does her homework on her bed.

We expect that this project doesn’t finish never so that the girls can go out of the traditional roles and can have a future. His lives can really change and decide by the same. They are small steps but at the same time tremendously big in a male chauvinistic society and be born woman is not at all easy.


The first Indian feminine surfer: Ishita Malaviya

Born in Mumbai, Malaviya has turned into an icon in a country where the feminine bend and the patriarchal surroundings are the bread of each day. It’s the first Indian feminine surfer that competes to a professional level.
It’s the first woman pro surfer in India, with all what this involves. The way so that a woman can make what wishes in a country controlled by men isn’t easy.

Malaviya has opened the way for all Indian women, that don’t live an easy situation. She has shown us that in addition to an impressive culture, India is full of perfect waves!
India surf Ambassador: From the year 2004, Malaviya is the image of the brand Roxy Surfwear, and also has been sponsored by Quiksilver.

 

Some hard beginnings

Be the first feminine surfer in India hasn’t been easy. Malaviya had his first contact with surf of the hand of a German student on exchange and began to surf in 2007.

From then, the surf turned into his big passion, approaching surf in a professional way. Malaviya has said on numerous occasions that his dream and his ambition is to promote India as an international surf destination.


The Shaka Surf Club

In 2007, Ishita and Tushar decided to buy a surfboard and start The Shaka Surf Club. At first, they wanted their friends to experience the thrill of riding a wave, but gradually people started approaching them to learn surfing. They found themselves giving surf lessons so they could raise capital to buy more surfboards.
What started out as a couple of college kids teaching their friends how to surf eventually evolved into one of the first surf schools in India.

Now that the two of them have graduated college, they have decided to pursue the surfer’s path and continue to run The Shaka Surf Club, full time. Tushar and Ishita are also Open-water Scuba Divers.
They have also received training in Surf rescue, First Aid and CPR by the American Red Cross Society.

Tushar and Ishita are both parts of the first surf team in India.

Nowadays Malaviya directs the Shaka surf club, with his boyfriend and infancy fellow Tushar Pathyan.

The club is situated on the Konkan coast, in concrete in a village called Kodi Brenge.
In 2014, this surf club made a video documentary titled: A rising tide – The India Surf Story.

It is a documentary of thirteen minutes of length on the origins of the surfing in India.

The situation in India for the feminine surfer community is such, that has done a film to show the fight that has to face daily. Malaviya Appears surfing landscapes of India, accompanied by other feminine western surfers feminine.

Beyond the Surface

It takes us into the small coastal towns of India and tells us how a young Hindu surfer is revolutionizing the customs of that remote region thanks to her love of the waves. Not in vain, the ocean has traditionally been a place frequented only by men (fishermen in their majority) and there has never been seen with good eyes that women go to the beach. But the customs are changing little by little and, to demonstrate that the initiative that this brave young man has undertaken is very necessary in the 21st century, five other

American surfers have traveled to India to ride waves together, discover the country as a way of road-trip and give free rein to his more spiritual side. We have had the opportunity to interview the director and photographer Dave Homcy, who has answered the questions through his mobile phone in full snowstorm from a remote town in the United States where he was shooting a television series. Undoubtedly, a good way to get into the back of a travel documentary unique in its kind, with the backdrop of surfing and a millenary culture that is changing under the magical influence of the waves.

 

With Malaviya like the protagonist, shows us how this sport is developing in the country, especially between women, and what will find if we decide to include it on a surf trip. Yoga, meditation, culture, virgin beaches… a pleasure for the senses.
This production supposes a hope for all those Indian women that dream with surf free like this, somehow, of the control to the that are subjected in the Asian country. It is a bridge between cultures, very necessary, and a launching of India like surf destination.

COLOSSAL WAVES: THESE ARE THE 10 MOST DANGEROUS WAVES IN THE WORLD

All these places have something in common: they are paradises with a sea only suitable for experts.

Meet the deadly waves of the entire planet:

1) TEAHUPOO (TAHITI)

This is one of the most feared and violent waves in the world. It breaks over at a coral reef and its height can exceed 25 meters. Since it was discovered, in 1997, five deaths were recorded.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RXGY9KDifU

2) JAWS (MAUI, HAWAII)

It’s one of the big waves surfing symbols. It breaks 4 kilometers from the coast and its height can easily reach 20 meters in height. It’s so big that the only way to grab it’s to be driven with a jet ski.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usi5iMoS-l0

3) PIPELINE (OAHU, HAWAII) 

It’s another of the mythical places for surfing, they define it as the best tube. The wave is hollow, powerful and breaks over a coral reef. A chilling detail: it’s the one that has claimed the most lives in the world.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0Z4vSrF8dc

4) NAZARÉ (PORTUGAL) 

When the climatic and sea conditions align, the water gets to have monstrous conditions. The waves exceed 20 meters and break very close to the shore.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74pnrYPozcU

5) PUNTA DE LOBOS (CHILE) 

When the conditions are ideal, the water reaches 10 meters and although there are bigger ones! the special thing about this is its length. Only one surf ride can reach 500 meters long!

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBnsP1XwYa8

6) DUNGEONS (SOUTH AFRICA) 

A wave that gives you goosebumps. Not only is it freezing, violent and big, but it waters are full of great sharks, that go to lunch at the nearby of the Island de las Secas. Only suitable for kamikazes.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdI2Teg4SHs

7) MAVERICKS (CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES) 

She’s known to have killed the Hawaiian legend, Mark Foo. It exceeds ten meters, is very powerful and has one of the thickest lips. Oh, and a minor detail: great sharks are common currency in Mavericks.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulqUyqaQvSU

8) PUERTO ESCONDIDO (MEXICO)

This wave is known as the Mexican “Pipeline”. It reaches ten meters, it’s break is very powerful and has more than five deaths in its history. To be careful…

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYI1QgxTMTA

9) SHIPSTERN BLUFF (TASMANIA)

This place is also known as the “Devil’s Point”. It doesn’t exceed ten meters but it’s a very violent wave that breaks near a rock formation. Only the most demented surfers were encouraged to master it.

Vídeo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6PndFyB3Gg

10) CYCLOPS (AUSTRALIA) 

It breaks violently in oval form, like the eye of a cyclops, on a background of very irregular coral. It also has the thickest lip in the world. Not many were encouraged, it is demonstrated why.

Vídeohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joz_Fk0fUTc